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April 1 2016    

This is the start of my preparation for the Camino De Santiago. After a winter in the casa in El Sargento, Baja California Sur Mexico, a winter filled with many personal challenges, lots of soul searching, and a quest to find my personal truths. I have decided to walk the Camino De Santiago starting in Mid to late May 2016. The “Camino” as it is called, is a pilgrimage from St. Jean France in the Pyrenees mountains, across all of Spain, and ending in Santiago, Spain. Once I decided to walk the Camino, I had the stark realization that this old body is not in shape to walk 800 KM, almost 500 miles, of the Camino De Santiago. So, I have changed my carnivore, fat filled, pizza eating, ice cream loving, cheesey mexican food loving diet, to a more healthy diet of, fresh fruit, yogurt, smoothies, veggies, and fish. I do allow for the temtation of a fat juicy rib eye steak, and a fully stuffed baked potato, including sour cream and cheese and bacon bits, once in a while. Basically, low fat, no or limited dairy, no sugar, no bread, no soda pops, and drinking lots of water. I have not stopped , beer , rum or tequila. I started exercising three weeks ago, hiking here in El Sargento, My first walk was about one mile, I was huffing and puffing walking up hill, and needed a nap when I got back to the Casita. Day two I doubled the extreamly long distance of day one, and needed two naps, and a beer. after a week I was walking 5 miles or more in the morning, on the beach and then up into the mountains , using the single track mountain bike trails that twist and turn thru the cactus filled area of the Cacachilla mountains here in the Baja. As of this date I am walking 6-9 miles a day, today I did the mountain, and beach walk, a total  of 8 miles in 2 hours and 15 mins, with a fair amount of vertical climb. I am walking 5 or 6 days a week and have lost about 10 pounds, would be more, but I fall to temptation , beer , Margaritas, and ice cream, with a filet mignon thrown in. all in due time , I will corral my temptations.  

Found this Camino Prayer. It is message I will carry with me , in my mind and in my backpack. “Although I may have traveled all the roads, crossed mountains and valleys from East to West, if I have not discovered the freedom to be my self, I have arrived nowhere. Although I may have shared all of my possessions with people of other languages and cultures; made friends with Pilgrims of a thousand paths, if I am not capable of forgiving my neighbor tomorrow, I have arrived nowhere. Although I may have had food and water each day, or may have had my injuries well attended, if I have not discovered the Divine in others, I have arrived nowhere. If from today I do not continue walking on the path, searching and living according to what I have learned; my journey has been in vain because, I have arrived nowhere.” Good workout today on the hike, a bit slower than yesterday , lots of uphill areas. did 8.2 miles but the GPS was not getting a good signal , only recorded 7.2 miles but kept the time going, so the average per mile pace was not correct . Oh Well no biggie. Here are some photos of the hike today.

Today’s hike was a bit slower lots of up hill. GPS didn’t get the whole hike it was about 8.4 miles, only recorded 7.2 . Beautiful morning for a hike.                     

Nice walk this morning thru the pueblo  7.8 miles. Gets easier every day. The pizza place was right next to the Cristo, so I used the fortitude of Cristo to resist the pizza.

Getting older is not for the weak.   

 

Got a sunrise start for today’s walk, to beat the heat, walked the beach to the hot springs , then up the hill to start the Johns Java Trail.  did the loop to the north,then walked the mountain trails all the way back to the Casita. 7.6 miles , a good workout, with the up and downs in the hills. Only 20 minute miles in the hills, but a good workout. could hear the chick chirping in the nest by the lighthouse. Greeted by a nice sunrise Nice way to troll for a fish dinner later I am doing one step at a time, this guy has to do six steps at a time. Osprey Nest Try walking a mile in another person’s shoes, you might find a path that you never knew existed. The birthplace of new life, very cool nest. The road less traveled. Our access to the beach.  

Great walk this mornig under overcast skys, nice and cool. Started the wald walk with Jane and Dave, good friends, and awesome people. Dave’s foot was sore, so he only went to the beach with us, Jane and I had a wonderful walk down the beach and up into the mountain bike trails. So nice to walk with Jane and we had wonderful conversations, she is a very wise, and centered woman. We walked and talked for 6 miles this morning. here are a few photos  of the walk.

Took the day off to start packing up ,for the drive north to Las Vegas. took the day off from my diet also. I went to a “hangars on ” party a couple of nights ago, for all of us still here after the wind sport season. Doctor said I could have one cocktail a day!!!               

Well it’s been a long time since my last post. Packed up the Casa in the Baja for the summer. Drove north for three days , with the cats, beautiful trip via San Felipe. Arrived safe and sound in Las Vegas. Nice to see Renee again, and re connect. Spent the last couple of weeks searching the Internet for all the gear I am going to need. My son Randy bought me an awesome Kathmandu 40 liter backpack, while he was on a layover in Brisbane. Have gotten loads of valuable info from my Jet Setting Kiddos. Feels like I have been living at REI and Dicks sporting Goods. I have been hiking most everyday breaking in my new Keen hiking boots and sandals. Very different hiking here in Vegas , but Renee and I have found a nice arroyo hike very near the house. We have also been hiking in sunset park, very good trails and lots of wildlife. The park has a system of trails and rural paths. Easy to hike 6 or more miles and never repeat a path or trail. I now have all my gear together and I am ready for the Camino. The pack and all the gear that I will vary weighs just under 14 lbs. that’s with everything but the water bladder filled. Here are some photos of the gear all laid out. And the pack fully loaded. Everything that is going in the backpack.   These two Jackets stow in there own pocket pouch they ate the blue and black pouch sacks in the  above photo.     Jackets in their pouch pockets      The Packing list   The fully loaded backpack , just under 14 lbs. and still has room to spare.

Getting ready to leave for the Camino on Friday the 13 th? Go figure!! Didn’t know it was Friday when I decided on the date for my departure . I found this explanation of the Camino walk. Thought it was  spot on. I am ready to find out what the Camino has in store for me. I am trying to be a blank page . All my bags are packed , I’m ready to go. One 14 lb backpack I need to stow. My heart is open I’m feelin the glow. So much to  learn , my true self to earn. Blah, blah , blah. This is the explanation that I found from a Lady that had walked the Camino. There are many reasons for doing a spiritual pilgrimage. For space, for healing, to say goodbye to a loved one, to deal with a terminal illness, for forgiveness, to find out who we really are at the core, for a deeper connection with a family member, or just because it calls and there is a sense that it is important. There are more reasons than I can list here. A process begins from the moment you say yes-a portal opens. The universe sighs. Angels cheer. A deeper connection to our soul is possible. The noise drops away. And with that our ears can begin to hear what the heart has been whispering and perhaps shouting. The body can take a breath. There is space and time. There is a beautiful pause. There is a place for magic to emerge. Our masks can drop. The real essence of who we are can emerge. And underneath it all our hearts begin to open to allow healing to occur. For some it may be on the surface a time ripe with the possibility of meeting cool and interesting people from around the world, of camaraderie, of shared experience, of being a part of something timeless or perhaps just an opportunity to see another part of the world and get away. It may be a bucket list item waiting to be crossed off. It is often not what the logical mind perceives it to be. And regardless of why you think you are going she will get her essence into you. If you think you are walking the Camino you are wrong – the Camino is walking you. She is taking you on a deep journey, creating possibility. Breaking down resistance. Sneakily invading your heart. When you least expect it she may grab you, shake you, and turn you upside down and spit you out. She may test you. Will you stay when your feet, tendons and ligaments hurt and every step feels like forever? Will you be kind when someone is irritating you? Will you be judging others who have a different version of the Camino? When you emerge from the silence of more solitary walking to the jarring jangle of the section after Sarria, will you feel anger and frustration? Will the noise, the constant chatter, the irregular clicking of pikes, the music from countless iPods and smartphones make you feel like screaming? Will the lack of tables or service at lunch arouse something less than spiritual in you? Your freedom comes from how you are with that. How you process that. How you choose to react. There is an opportunity to look at your life and how you react under stress. Perhaps her greatest gift to you is just that. A newfound ability for self observation. It is up to you how much you allow the armour around your heart to drop away. Buen Camino Ariana

Well I am officially in overwhelm mode at this point. In 24 hrs I will be at the airport waiting for my flight to San Francisco and then the flight to Paris. I will arrive in Paris the next day at 10:30 am. Then the adventure begins, how to get to St. Jean Pied de Port, France. Looks like I need to fly to Biarritz France spend the night and then take a train to St Jean. I will spend a day or so in St Jean, and then start the walkabout. Or Take a train to Bayonne spend the night and then a bus to St Jean. One step at a time. The reality of this quest has set in. WTF was I thinking? Am I really doing this? Who’s idea was this ? Am I really doing this? At what point in my life did I loose my mind? Oh, Thats right, I have been crazy from birth. Today will be filled with last minute visits to REI, and the Cell phone companies, trying to figure out how to stay in contact and still have a bank balance when I return. Looks like I will get a Spanish sim card, so I will have to post my new Spanish phone #, but email will still work the same. I am packed and ready

Got up a 3:00 AM , ouch. Checked the standby list last night and the flight that had 25+ seats available was now oversold. Did the mad scramble to buy a full fair ticket to SFO. Got the last seat for $ 75 not bad. Renee took me to the  airport at 4am. True devotion of my beautiful wife. I am now in the SFO airport waiting for my flight to Paris at 2:45pm. Looking for clam chowder and SF sourdough bread, carb loading is what I call it. Got my boarding pass for Paris and TSA pre check .😀👏🏻

Had a wonderful flight from San Francisco to Paris.  A short 10 hr flight , due to the jet stream tailwinds, landed in Paris 1/2 hr earlier than the computer flight plan. I got business class seat in a lay flat pod, what a treat and a great way to start the trek. The service was first class, drank a lot of champagne . I will post the menu at the end of this blog along with a few photos. I am now waiting in the Paris airport for my flight to Biarritz, France. Biarritz is in the Bayonne area of France and is a beautiful coastal town noted for its great surfing breaks. 

Got thru customs without getting arrested, had a5 hr wait for my flight to Biarritz France . Checked into a nice hotel right on the river in Bayonne close to the train station and the Biarritz airport. Got settled into the room and went for a walk around the central city. It’s a quaint city with lots of bistros along the waterfront. Had a great fish dinner , couple of glasses of wine and strawberry shortcake. It’s bed time for me, early train in the morning. I will spend a couple of days in St Jean Pied de Port, getting over jet lag and sightseeing, before I start my walk. Here are some photos of  Biarritz/ Bayonne France and my dinner.

Got up early in Biarritz/Bayonne, raining this morning. Got a taxi to the train station in Bayonne for the 7:45 am train to St.Jean Pied de Port.  Train ticket office closed, so boarded the train without a ticket. Must be able to pay on board, it was true. At least a dozen Peregrinos waiting for the train. Once on board met several pilgrims Stewart from Cape Town, and two ladies from Asia . Great conversation on the 1 hr train ride. Upon arrival in St Jean , decided not to walk in the rain, Stewart walked in the rain on his last Camino and said never again. Walked around the quaint town and picked up last minute supplies for my walk, compeed blister patches and hiking poles. Checked into an albergue, dropped off my backpack, and went to get breakfast( coffee and sweet roll), then Stewart , the Asian ladies and I toured parts of the town, about 11 AM the sun peaked out of the clouds and the Asian ladies decided to begin there walk, rather a late start. But off they went. We said buen Camino, gave a hug and said goodbye. Stewart and I toured the town and  Later Stewart and I had a Peregrino dinner of veggie soup and chicken and fries, a bttle of vino and Basque cake for desert. turned in early forba good nights sleep. here are some photos of the day.

Started the Official Camino walk today. Was very excited to begin the amazing journey. Ten minutes into the walk I said , wtf am I doing. The trail left the city and started up hill right away. We climbed almost 3-4 k vertical in the first few miles. Got blisters in the first 3 miles. Bwaaah. Placed compeed patches on them and pressed on. This is the most arduous hike I have ever done , tested the physical and the mental. In all the walk was over 9 hrs, up and over the Pyrenees mountaintop of France. The path kept going up and then up some more, then up some more. Seemed the the up hill would never end. Crossed the border into Spain and went up some more. Then we went down thru the forest and followed a VERY steep path that made the up hill seem like a piece of cake. We were totally spent when we arrived in Roncesvalles Spain covering almost 23 miles or so. 

After yesterday’s death march, only walked 4 miles to the nearby town of Espinal, took the day off and just relaxed. Very mellow day to let the body heal. Spent the day with wonderful people that were recovering also. Tomorrow it’s off again to see what the Camino has in store for us. We shall see how far our steps take us.

What a great day, Nice walk from Espinal  to Zubiri, not a long distance but a fair amount of up and down. Said goodbye to our wonderful host, he made us very comfortable and ran the small albergue all by himself. Started the walk with my new found peregrinos, soon found the desire to walk alone for some introspection . The path took me thru forest and farms, several treats , heard the sound of many birds, including a coocoo bird that I could hear for a mile or more. The narrow steep path finally descended down into Zubiri. Here are some photos. 

Had a wonderful walk in a light misting rain for the first hour on the Camino to Trinidad de Erre in the town of Villava. Walked along a river for several miles, stopped along the way at an Abbey that was being restored by a group of peregrinos. The abbey was built in the 12th century. Walked at a very slow pace to smell the flowers along the way, no rush to get anywhere. Just enjoy the walk and what the Camino has to offer. Here are some photos.

Was awake several times in the night thinking about a young couple that I had been walking with the last two days. Lisa and P J are about the same age as my kids, P J Is from Portugal and Lisa from Sydney . They are world Trekkers and have been married for 16 years. On the first day out of St. Jean PJ came to the aid of a family and carried a pack for them up and over the mountain, he injured his ankle, over the next two days favoring the injury, he stressed his knee and hobbled each day. When I awoke I decided to convince them to take a day of rest, and let the injury heal. We had a great day of relaxation, I found a public pool and spa. We spent several hours soaking, in the jacuzzi , the sauna, and steam room. It worked very well for his injury. I got to spend a few hours sitting in the shade by the stream , catching up in my  journal. Later went shopping for a communal meal, salmon, veggies, spinach and strawberry salad, lime sorbet, and of course , some vino. Shared some good conversation with the Host Emilio, and brother Domingo, who host the pilgrims in the 12 th century church. A special connection was felt by all. It was amazing how the Camino provides all that you need . By the way my feet are doing well, it is a misnomer that you break in your shoes and boots, you break in your feet.  The Internet is very slow photos later A

After our day of rest started the walk to Pamplona , walked an alternate route along the river, a wonderful stroll into the city of Pamplona , impressed by the old structures and the cobbled streets. Wondered what the old pilgrims felt as they entered the city. I was impressed with the city parks, not impressed with the hustle bustle of the city, busses, cars, horns, sirens, diesel smells, got to the other side of the city and stayed in a very nice albergue in Cizor Menora host by a nice lady that spoke great English and gave foot massages. Glad to be out of the big city. Q

Today was a most significant day, started out with thunder and lightning all night long, woke up to rain . Everyone putting on rain gear for the long up hill trek to the windmills , then a very steep decent down to the verdant valley. After a long struggle up hill arrived to have a fantastic view of the trek ahead and Pamplona and the Pyrenee’s behind. As I started Down the steep rock and pebble covered path, I observed many placed rock piles , and stacked rocks called carins , don’t know the spelling. I wondered why people add to the piles or stack the rocks. My answer was, that it didn’t matter why others placed their rocks. What mattered was why I would stack or place them. I decided that I would place them for atonement. To place one for the girl in kindergarten that I pulled he pig tail. For other acts that I was not proud of. Any transgressions that I may have committed , known to me or unknown. Atonement for any wrong doing on my part. I also placed a stack holding blessings and positive thoughts and prayers for my family, I also set a stack for the entire family of man and a stack for the beautiful planet the we live on. As I decended the steep mountain . I came across an old man going in the opposite direction, I pulled out my camera to get a photo of this very old man, only to realize that he was a man of the cloth. His first words to me were, your atonement has been heard and your blessings received. He then blessed me an said that all is forgiven in my life. This was without a word from me. I had not spoken to him at all except buen dia. He told me to enjoy the spiritual part of my Camino and blessed my journey and continued his walk in the opposite direction. A truly amazing Encounter. Became a very emotional day as I thought about the relationship and love that I have for my family, I also thought about my relationship with all my friends, and thankful for all the great times with my friends. On the way down the thunderstorm started building so I ducked into a cafe and moments later came pouring rain and hail. Many pilgrims were caught in the downpour.  The rest of the day was spent visiting one of three octagon shaped temples built in Spain by the Nights Templar. It was a few km off the normal path. We arrived late into Obanos for the night. The four of us ate dinner and had deep conversations, that came from deep within.

A very short day today, my walk partners and I were still tired from yesterday’s trek up and over the mountain. None of us is in a hurry and we are enjoying each little village, we spend time taking in each place we walk thru. Ready tomorrow for a few more miles, still quite a bit of vertical in front of us. All of our ailments are improving daily.  One of the Asian ladies that we met on the train to St. Jean , fell and broke her arm, spent some time in the hospital in  Logrono. We wish her future safe travels along the Camino.we are spending the night in the village of Lorca.  Today my focus was to forgive others.

Today I left  Lorca early before the others, I wanted to walk alone only saw a dozen or so pilgrams all day. The walk was a very long 34+ km started at 6:30 am finished at 4 pm in Los Arcos.  Today I walked with my music all day, clicking my trek poles to the time of the music and yes trying to sing, no one around to hear me. Today I placed a stone along the path for every person in my life that I could recall from childhood to present , so you are all included, I placed stones on top of markers and on stone piles. As I thought of each one of you I expanded the place in my heart where you reside. I also placed stones for that I have known and passed to the next journey. I expressed love and greatfulness for having each of you in my life, as each of you has impacted my life in one way or another. I am truly blessed to have had each of you in my life. A great day remembering friends and listening to music. Oh and visiting the fountain of vino, free wine too bad it was so early.

Very short walk today to Rio de Torres, after yesterday’s marathon hike took it very easy. I tried something different today during the walk, mindlessness, tried for a quiet mind, I only wanted to experience my sense of smell, the wheat growing along the path, the flowers, the animal dung was quite easy to experience, the wet lands are different from the dry areas, all in all a fun time, when the mind got busy I would focus like a Monty on the quote from  Theodore Roosevelt Do what you can with what you have, wherever you are.i would use that to quite the mind back to mindlessness. Slow internet photos later.

A day of placing stones again, so most all of you have have been stoned by me, LoL . I also did much thinking about how we create seperation in our lives, religious , political, ethnic, cultural, gender etc. so I placed several rock cairns, that had two vertical rocks and a larger rock on top spanning the vertical rocks kind of like a pagoda, the symbology to me was , we each are unique but we are connected or bridged to one another. Also we bridge the past to the present, the present to the future, so I spent much time enjoying the sense of connectedness. It was a fine experience to walk into the large city of Logrono. Rested my tired feet in a cold foot fountain at the public Albergue. Had a cold beer and a high carb dinner.  Photos later due to very slow internet even in the big city.

Very hot in the Albergue last night, not much sleep due to tha heat and humidity. Got up at 5:30, it was 70 + at 6am, took an hour to walk out of the city. Another short 10 mile walk in the the heat and humidity the temp rose to 85 . All of us were suffering the heat , not much shade, and lots of new aches and pains, for all of us hydration has become an issue. So we are drinking lots of water. Our walk today took us thru the vineyards of northern Spain , such beautiful sights and countryside. We were greated at the albergue in Ventosa with cold water, by a very nice host couple, we could not wait to hit the shower for a long cooling time. Today’s thought for the day: Henery Ford If you believe you can do it, you are right, if you believe you can’t do it you are also right.

After a very hot walk yesterday and a wonderful stay at a fabulous albergue. The day was started cool, wore my jacket all day . The weather has rapidly turned cold with approaching cold front rain and thunder forecast for the afternoon. I have been troubled by the ankle sprain , caused by bicyclist zooming by from behind with no warning, a few days ago , startled me ,allowing  me to loose my balance and foot placement and thus rolled my left ankle. Yesterday I was walking alone and again was passed by a trio of speeding downhill cyclists without warning. The first one struck me with a glancing blow from behind, knocked me off balance and re-rolled my ankle, they kept going without a word spoken.   Today was the the practice of being in tune with my step, the pace, the length of stride, weight on the outside of the foot, on the inside of the of the foot. All manners of walking to ease the discomfort of the ankle, and because of compensation to the ankle yesterday and my now bothersome left knee.  But it was the day of the step. I also got to confront my anger and distrust of all cyclists, I am guilty of profiling. So I spent much time looking at the issue within.  The young man sitting at the table was named Daniel he was using arm crutches, as he had no use of his legs , maybe spastic , he was walking the Camino 6 Km a day, quite an inspiration to me, his hands were of leather due to his grip on the crutches , his smile was the expression of his heart. The thought of the day: yesterday is history, tomorrow is a secret, today is a gift.

Started early from Azofra with a cup of coffee to start the walk, using a brace on my left knee seems to help, varied Terrain today , vineyards gave way to wheat fields and oats, mostly rolling hills with a few steep accents and descents . Traveling from east to west at dawn, I observed the dawning of my shadow, starting with a very long shadow that was leading me along the path, I followed my shadow for hours , my shadow becoming shorter and shorter as the sun rose higher in the sky, at the apex of the sun sun the shadow began to follow me. I spent time discovering the shadows within myself, my judgments , my slants, my profiling, my expectations, my shadow ego. A very fulfilling day of introspection.  Thought for the day: it’s not your experiences that shape you, but what you make of them.

Last night was spent in a century’s old albergue run and hosted by a married couple, the man had 14 times walked the various Caminos. It inspired him to start an albergue, with his wife to aide pilgrams , asking only a donation for the overnight stay which offered a shared dinner and breakfast. The albergue was a restoration in progress, it only had one bathroom with shower , sink and toilet all behind one door. That bathroom had to serve the needs of 34 pilgrams bedded on three different floors. It was the art of sharing, letting someone with urgent toilet needs enter the bathroom to the front of the line. Everyone attentive to the needs of others , it reminded me of a saying that a dear friend of mine coined, Archie has now passed, but he used to say” be ever mindful of the need of others” Thank you Archie my friend RIP. While sleeping in the rustic albergue last night I was visited 3 times in the night by a ghost, spirit or angel. The first awakened me to the feeling of my blanket being placed upon my feet. The second was my feet being moved physically to the center of the bed. The third was like a cat jumping upon my feet and shaking the bed, each time I opened my eyes to see nothing, the last time I was fully awake during the encounter.in the morning I talked to the hosts about my encounter, they shared that they have seen , yes seen , four different spirits, the woman host said they are spirit and spiritual guides. She shared that after they make contact with a pilgrams they don’t show back up in the albergue for weeks as the spirits give spiritual guidance to the contacted pilgram all along the Camino.the hostess said I should be open to further contact in a couple of days. I welcome the contact.  I shared the story and found out that a lady on the ground floor also had contact during the night. She started to tool off of her bunk and was caught and supported back upon her bunk. After my sharing PJ one of my travel companions went to the room where I had been sleeping alone. He heard the sound of breathing with no one in the room.  The walk to Belorado was peacefull and serene, many deep conversations with my travel mates. Lots of deep sharing, I and grateful , for their genuine opened to share their inner thoughts, thank you Lisa, PJ , and Stewart.  I again walked alone for part of the time working on my stride to reduce the aches and pains in my ankle and knee. I would find a certain stride that would produce no pain for several minutes, then all of a sudden, some random pain would start up again.  We have all decided tha a full day of rest is in orde in the town of Belorado. We checked into a fantastic albergue for a two night stay, great food and a warm family that hosts the hostel. We enjoyed a late lunch of shared tapas, and Stewart and I each had a well deserved  San Miguel Beer. Had a 2 hour nap, in the siesta tradition, walked very little of the town to rest my foot,Stewart went to the doctor for his nagging cough and got some antibiotics. He I on the mend. PJ. and Lisa did their usual shopping for fresh veggies and cooked their evening meal, after a 3 hour nap.  Thought for the day: The steps of your path is your destination. It is not the perceived outcome, of those steps,  but the single step in motion in the present.

A fantastic day of rest and relaxation , and letting the foot and knee  heal, went to the local market and found all the ingredients for home made mostaccoili. Cooked up bacon bits, lots of minced garlic, white onion, roasted red , green, yellow peppers, mushrooms, green and black olives from the region, roasted whole tomatoes , artichoke hearts, sliced zucchini , salt pepper, herbs , all slowly simmered in wine and olive oil. Boiled the tube pasta, combined all together and added good amounts of parmigiana cheese, asiago cheese, and a local Spanish strong cheese. Mike and Monica from California brought wine ( 3 bottles ) and local fresh bread. The 6 of us ( PJ, Lisa, Stewart, Monica , Micheal, and myself stuffed ourselves, there was enough left over to share with a couple of pilgrams form Korea. A most relaxing day. St. James watched over us.

A very short day starting with a fine breakfast , bacon and eggs, yogurt, fresh juice, coffee, and fresh fruit to take on the path. Departed alone just before 7 am arrived in Villafranca at 9:45 am. After the day day of rest and healing I wanted to go easy and test out my foot and knee. Great to report no pain or stress, the day of rest was a good idea. I walked holding greatfulness in my heart for my family, my wonderful wife and my two children, I am thankful to that which created me all that we have on the beautiful place called earth, I hold the thought that mankind will learn to coexist in harmony with each other and in harmony with this great Eden that we call home. Let the greed, power and politics transform to harmony and peace.  Walked up on Daniel again today he walked beyond me yesterday during my day of rest He is the crippled man, that inspires me, who am I to complain.

A very long walk today, separated from my wolf pack, walked alone and kept walking after the others stopped for the day. Walked a total of 38km a walk of solitude, looking at how my persona is perceived by others. How they perceive me is their choice, I have no control over their choices. I found that I have internal resentment, when I am lumped into generalities, like; it’s a male thing, or it’s a pilot thing, or all men are like this or that . Today I found that I am truly an introvert, i don’t try to be the center of attention , or life of the party. I prefer to listen rather than speak.  So I guess that my walking alone fits my persona. Viewed some wonderful sights today on my solo journey. I got in the zone with my walking tempo , listening to my body and adjusting the tempo and length of step, if the legs were calling out in pain for more blood and o2 I would shorten the step not the pace, likewise the lungs to the heart, breath to lungs, when everything is balanced, all are in harmony. Push to fast, or step too far , one or more cry out. I achieved the balance of the step today. For Gary the Ranger bird man. I have noted 37 different bird songs so far on the journey. I placed several stones at the base of the cross at the top of the hill, for my wife, my kids , my friends in general. And prayed for healing, peace and happiness , good health, and harmony.

After a long day yesterday took the day off to tour the city of Burgos, the second largest city on the Camino. A very ornate cathedral is central in the city, a romantic , lazy river flows thru the city. It was a festival day , so all the shops were closed except the tourist traps. Many people strolling the prominade . Family’s, couples, bicycles, dog walkers. There is a long narrow park system that follows the river. The architecture is largely Roman influence. A very nice city, but too much hustle bustle for me. I am much more of a rural type. I live in Vegas?  Thought I would take this time to share what it is like to stay in an albergue. They are all different, some private and small some are in monestarys , some are municiple having as many as 150 beds , dorm style bunk beds. They most all are first come first served. They don’t accept guests until 12:30 or 1:00 pm each day and tend to fill up fast, so arriving in the afternoon is important if you want a bed for the night. Arrive after 5 pm in a town you may not find a bed. Arrive late and the next town might be 18 km away, not good after a long day.  So let’s start with the arrival at an albergue. You take off your loaded pack, show your country passport and your Camino passport, you receive a stamp in your Camino passport to show your travels along the Camino, a history of your walk. Most cafe’s also will have a stamp for your passport.  A nights stay is from 5 to 10 euros. You then try to find a lower bunk, much easier for midnight stroll in the dark to the bathroom down the hall or down two flights of stairs. After placing your boots outside , boots not allowed inside, your start to unpack to get to your sleep sack to claim your bed. Now collect your shower needs and your change of clothes, everything you need is at the bottom of your pack, so now you have everything in your pack all over your bunk, just to find your soap and towel. Now you have replace everything back in your pack for security, oops, laundry soap in bottom of the pack, unpack and repack. Finally off to the shower, with your clean change of clothes. If lucky the shower will have hooks and a shelve for your dry clothes and your soap , oops maybe not. Enter the shower, strip down, only to find that the facet is a 10 second push button with no temp control. Takes 5 pushes to get the cold water to the preset temp of just below body temp, but the water is wet, the better albergues have continuous water and normal temp control, this becomes a priority in albergue choice. Once your shower is done you need to do your daily laundry so you can hang it in the with enough time for it to dry, you don’t want to start your day with wet socks. So you find the laundry tub, oops, only push button again and only cold water, you need to have hot water for the socks as you have slathered your feet with Vaseline to keep blisters away, now it takes hot water to clean your  socks. Laundry done time to hang them, oops clothes pins in the bottom of the pack, still have not had time for the first beer or glass of wine. The nicer albergues will do your laundry for 3 euros wash and 2-3 euros dry. And you get the first beer much sooner. Do a little tour of the town, find some snacks and a couple of bananas for the walk tomorrow. Now find where you want to eat dinner, most albergues have a pilgrims 3 coarse communal meal including a bottle of wine from the region. Dinner is usually at 7 pm, you enjoy the company of others walking with you or other people you have seen along the way. Lots of time sharing the Camino experience with people from all over the world. By now it might be 9 -9:30 pm oh no, laundry still on the line , now kind of dark outside. Bring in laundry and start to fold it, getting ready for tomorrow, spend time talking to the bunk mates around you. All of a sudden all the lights go out, it’s quiet time and lockout, no one allowed in after 10 pm. Get out the head lamp to find the way to the bathroom to brush teeth . In the bathroom they have motion lights that stay on for a few seconds, so you develope a hand waving leg wagging routine to keep the lights on. No you need to use the toilet, sit down, hold the door closed with your foot, wave your hands every time the lights go out. By the way some of the bathrooms and showers are coed, eventually modesty goes out the window. You never forget toilet paper after the first time, it’s in the bottom of the pack. Now time for sleep after stumbling back to the bunk in the dark. Stuff toiletries and laundry and toilet paper into the pack plus the clothes you you have on. Now crawl into your sleep sack, close you eyes and get ready for a good nights sleep, what is that dreadful noise, snoring from all corners, the result of walking all day and consuming wine with dinner. Yes, I need my industrial jet engine tarmack type of ear plugs. Where did I last put them? Yep, in the bottom of the backpack. So the unpack pack routine again in the dark. Oops forgot to take my ibuprofen and vitamins, you know where they are. Finally fast asleep, 5 am what’s that noise? People stuffing their backpacks crumpling plastic bags, shuffling around, dropping things, bang the metallic sound go the backpack hitting the metal gram of a bunk bed, whispers turn audible mumbles about water bottles and things not found in the dark, no lights on before 6-7 am in the albergues, why do they get up so early? So they can rush to first to get a bunk in the next albergue. All pilgrims must depart the albergues by 8 am. It is ground hog day all over again.

Today a good threat of thunder storms and lightening , so Stewart and I decided to take the bus to castrojeriz, walking the open fields during a lightening storm is not a good idea, considering my past lifestyle. Rationalized that early pilgrams would ride in a cart , when available or offered, so a bus is the modern cart. A nice bus ride thru the wheat and Oats growing area of northern Spain. Checked into an albergue called  Ultria, a renovated structure, very clean , and warm hosts. The host said we should tour his cellar at 8pm. He took us down to the cellar/ wine storage barrels. This stairway and passage was part of an underground network of defensive, and hiding places, it was also offensive as the tunnel had narrow arches with low head room , the enemy would have to stoop over head first to clear the portal at which time their head would receive the fatal blow. The tunnel with its Roman arches, and the tunnel was over 2 km long and connected to a secret portal in the distant church church , this cellar and passageway was disguised as a winery and aging cellar. Above the winery in the main room was a log boom , hand hewn jack screw that controlled the pressure of the grape press.  Thought for the day. Circumstances do not create you; you create the circumstances.

Walked in a light mist this morning crossing the rolling plains and Mesa area of the meseta. Beautiful grain fields with wild flowers everywhere. Then came the climb up a very steep and long path up and over a daunting hill, the grade was up to 18%. A true test of the mental and physical, a true test of the relationship with self, much like the relationship with others in your life. You become aware of the needs , you seek to be in tune with the needs Of the relationship, fail to recognize the needs or fail to fulfill the needs and the relationship suffers, some part feels neglected and reacts to let you become aware. Push too hard on the body up hill and not be in awareness of the needs of the body, the legs burn, muscles call out, heart beats loud and fast, lungs cry for air. Be in tune with the relationship and keep steady focus , all is in harmony . finally arrived in the rather run down village of Boadilla , to my surprise, found an oasis, in the artsy  albergue En El Camino, walked thru the gate to find an art park. Had a great meal , and many inspiring conversations with other pilgrims. Thought for the day;  Every encounter is an encounter with self.

A very nice walk at a stroll pace today thru the farmland and grain fields , identified three more bird calls bringing the total to 41 different calls, don’t know how many are from the same bird or birds. Had to stop short on this very easy walk day, all of a sudden shooting pain all the way up my left calf, dealt with the pain for over an hour changing pace and step length , stopped several times to massage the calf thinking it might be cramps due to dehydration, nothing worked. The pain would not stop, so I opted to do no more potential damage and took a taxi the last few miles to Carrion. Staying in a convent run by wonderfull sisters, with kind hearts. Going to the pharmacy to get heat cream for my calf and let it rest. After the first treatment the calf is feeling better, and I am taking industrial strength magnesium tablets to help restore the muscles, spears to be working  already. Thought for the day ; every human carries in oneself everything he/she needs for a happy life, many simply forgot or forget.

Today I spend in reflection of my relationship with my creator, my wife , my children, and mankind. I will attend a prayer hour at 5:30 pm with the Sisters that attend the convent. I will also attend the mass in the church that is for the blessing of the pilgrims. Although I am not Catholic , I will draw what is intended for me. My focus of my reverence today is to bless the Camino journey that my life partner/ wife Renee begins today in Pamplona. May her solo journey deliver the answers that she seeks, may her journey be a blessed event, granting  her peace and comfort. Thought for the day;  It is only with the heart that one can see rightly, what is essential is invisible to the eye, as a blind person can see thru the heart.

Had a fantastic and spiritual afternoon and evening. I attended the vespers prayer hour, hosted by one of the nuns from the albergue, 8 of us attended, they were the Catholics , I was the heathen. We all shared our spiritual reasons for walking the Camino, very emotional for all of us. We all shared from our innermost spirit. The sharing was followed by prayers and song. Very special to have had a priest from Georgia in the group, he and the nun both said prayers for each of us, and we all prayed together. At 8pm I went to the town church to observe  evening  mass. Mass was all in Spanish , the father gave blessings , drank wine, gave more blessings, drank more wine, said a prayer, drank more wine , asked us to all greet each other, we all shook hands , and exchanged hugs and smiles, a very nice connection , the father drank more wine. The father then gave a short sermon, and had more wine. Communion was given to all the Catholics. More wine. The father then asked all the pilgrims to come to the altar to receive prayer from the father, he placed his hands on the head and made the sign of the cross on our foreheads. He asked for a show of hands what our home country was, he called every country on the planet, very impressive. The whole mass was amazing and spiritually special to me. Today we had a short 18 km walk that started at 6:30 am due to the heat forecast. By the time we arrived in Calzadilla the temp had risen to 88 degrees. The walk in the meseta, is much like walking in Nebraska, Kansas , Texas, Oklahoma. Toto we are still in Kansas. Just miles and miles of rolling plains with no shade along the way. Done walking by noon and having a beer, will be up early for a cool morning walk tomorrow. Here are a couple of photos. The thought for the day; No event has any power over you but only who’ve you give to it.

Got up very early to avoid the heat, left the albergue before dawn, was greeted to a beautiful sunrise, had coffee and a chocolate pastry. Walked thru the town of Terrradillos de Templarios, this was a stronghold of the Knights Templar. About 20km of walking in very flat terrain. Walked alone on the path again today, it is a journey of deep personal reflection, where you ponder and clarify your innermost thoughts and perceptions of life and relationships, and the things that bring harmony. Entered the town of Sahagun, to find a 4 day festival just starting. It is a big gala for the whole town, the festival of the Bulls. The town was abuzz with the preparations for the running of the Bulls , and the bullfights on Sunday in the Corrida. Made the decision to stay a couple of nights to experience local fiesta vibe. The real party will start on Friday . passed by the pillars that are the mid point on theSpanish portion of the Camino. Thought for the day; Who only sees what life hasn’t  given to him, will never see what it gives to him.

Took two days off to explore this historical small city. It was very important during the early pilgrim times, there were many albergues to aid the pilgrims. Today it is largely agricultural , but now the town is in total fiesta mode, that means , lots of drinking 24/7 lots of loud music. There will be little sleep to be had. It is the festival of the Bulls , running of the Bulls thru the city streets, many very drunk young men running with the Bulls. Most everyone has been drinking all day. The towns people are divided into groups, each sporting different colored shirts, each group has a marching band, they seem to make numerous loops around the city stopping at each bar along the route, the band and the runners are accompanied by wives and girlfriends, and ,oh yes ,the babies. On Saturday we positioned ourselves safely behind a fence along the route, to view the running of the Bulls. The running was to start at 7 pm at 8 pm we heard a cannon boom, oh boy here they come at last!!! All 6 Bulls ran past us with the drunk men running along side, total time for the Bulls to run past us? 6 seconds and the running of the Bulls was history, time for the colorful groups to go back to drinking. The partying continued all night, at 6am I went outside and the they were still in the bars, drinking and partying. Later in the day around 11 am I toured the city, no one in site the town was empty, most shops closed . Saturday late afternoon the groups with their bands started up again for the second running of the Bulls . This time 5 Bulls in 5 seconds. Let the drinking begin again. Another all night party . ​ Here are some photos. ​

Left the albergue at 6am looking for a cup of cafe  Americano from our favorite cafe that that has the best pastries in Spain . Bummer it was closed, so I sat on the wall waiting for it to open , Stewart showed up and said lets press on and find another cafe, then I smelled the pastries being baked in the basement of the cafe, the odor of fresh baking wafting from a vent at the sidewalk level, I was salivating a s the owner makes the best pastries, I was bummed that it was closed, when all of a sudden the owner opened her apartment door next to the cafe, do we hold her hostage ? for coffee and pastries ran thru my mind, alas she recognized us from our frequent trips to engourge ourselves with her tasty treats. She opened the cafe and rapidly closed the door behind us, don’t let others see that I am open, she said. She made us personal coffee and offered today’s freshest pastries. She said she only got to bed at 4 am after partying all night, and she would have to open the cafe later , she wished us buen Camino and we were on our way. As we walked thru town the partying was still in full swing, loud music and young people in the streets cocktails in hand viewing the dawn with bloodshot eyes. I walked today 30+ km to Mansilla.  Here are some photos.

Last night was a great sharing time , met and stayed with 4 other pilgrams, a nice lady from England, who had walked 46km that day, also a woman from Japan that also walked 46km, animals of the Camino. Farm land turned to industrial areas industrial became suburbia, suburbia gave way to the old city of Leon, with its rich history and a grand cathedral, sporting amazing stained glass windows. I found a hostel near the cathedral, it has a bath tub, real towels, real linens , and pillows. I’m in heaven. Toured the old city and took some photos. I will take tomorrow off to reflect on the first half of my journey and prepare for the second half.  Thought for the day; Problems are challenges that you created, in order to learn from them. Richard Bach.

Took the day off in Leon got a nice room in a hostel/hotel.  Today I reflect on the first half of this amazing journey. I am now over 300 miles afoot in this beautiful country of Spain. The travel so far is about equal to walking from the San Francisco Bay Area to Los Angeles along the coastal range and valleys. I am now about 175 miles from the destination of Santiago.the first third of the walk was to get in touch with the physical challenge and the mental that goes with those challenges. The body can’t be ignored, mind over matter does not work. The body screams out for what it needs or it just stops working due to injury or intense pain. Many pilgrims have to end their walk in the first week or two. You place ego aside and get in tune with the body or you fail. You listen and feel the requests of the body, you rapidly learn mostly thru pain what the body wants. It wants moderation, it wants good nutrition, it wants hydration, it demands rest stops and good nighttime sleep. You learn to pace, the muscles ache for more blood and oxygen, the heart responds with increased tempo, to outright pounding, the heart screams for more oxygen from the lungs, the lungs gasp faster and faster to supply the demand of the heart. You learn to control the pace and length of stride to keep all the demands of the body at a comfortable level with no part out of sync. Harmony is the key. Trek poles are a Benifits as you can help propell yourself forward using arms and back muscles to ease the legs , a great aid going up hill. Takes about 20% of the load off of the legs. Going down hill the poles ease the impact on the ankles, knees and hips, downhill I much tougher on the joints, unlike the crying of the lungs and muscles the joints don’t cry out they just get pounded and let you know at the end of the day. My feet are my horses. They must be treated with love and respect, you break them in slowly, you treat them with a gentile touch, just the right pressure on the laces just as you use light hands on the reins. You use just the right pressure to guide the commands. You walk lightly just as you ride light in the saddle. You pay attention to your feet just as you listen to your steed feeling pulse rate, breath, and lathering. At the stops you offer the horse water and grain, you ease the the tension of the saddle straps or remove the saddle to let the back dry and relieve the stress on the withers, you tend to your horse. Your remove the shoes dry the socks add lotion if needed, tend to hot spots change blister protection.  You establish a relationship with your feet, just as you develope and relationship with your horse . You are partners on the Camino.  The second third of the Camino is an inner journey, reviewing and exposing your most inner thoughts and desires . You delve deeply into your core beliefs, your shortcomings your strengths. This is the point on the Camino where the interpersonal communication with others along the Camino becomes deeper and deeper, it is also when personal differences become apparent . Social issues arise, egos begin to surface . Patience is tested , tolerance tested, acceptance tested, compassion experienced, how one deals with these inputs help to define your core values and thoughts. Very easy to dwell in the ego. The need to be right ,the need to lead, the need to follow the ego is a complex bedfellow. The need to voice is tested the need to stay in the shadows is tested and exposed. You have a great opertunity to examine the relationship with self. Everyone’s journey is unique unto them self. We all walk for different reasons and for different desired outcomes. Some walk for physical training, some walk to enjoy nature, some are battling cancer some are terminal . Some are in troubled relationships , some have lost family members or a spouse. Some walk for religion or spirituality, for some the walk is social , to meet new people every day to remember names and country of origins. To engage in chats all day along the Camino. For others it is the solitude of the quiet wordless walk of self discovery. For some they spend the time deep in prayer and devotion, for others it might be a blend of all of the above and more. The Camino is a special, unique, highly personal journey , different for every pilgrim, although we walk the same path , our journey’s are as varied as the people walking the path, each of us taking in what the Camino offers.  Two days ago I spent 5+ hours deep in thought over the word “relationship” what it means to be in relationship , what defines relationship, what are the core values of a relationship. What are needs of a relationship, what are the responsibilities . I took the word relationship  and took each letter starting with the letter R and recorded the first three “R” words that related to the concept of relationship. I.E. Respect , responsibility, romance. I pondered each r word as to how it affects relationship and how it contributes to the relationship. I did this for every letter in the word “relationship” always the first three words that come to mind. The results blew my mind how they all worked to form my understanding of the meaning and feeling of a relationship. For we are in relationship will all that we come in contact with, human, animal, spiritual, physical, cosmic, we are in relationship with all that is , our awareness is the only filter or block. I look forward to the last 174 miles with an openess to receive the true spiritual purpose of the Camino. How many have made this very same walk since the 8 th century, what have they gained? What have they Learned? What have they given others from this experience?

After last nights jacuzzi, steam room , sauna, and an hour long massage, I was ready to set out on the Camino again. Awoke to stormy skies, and a brisk wind. This was a long walk today 32 km most of it in a light on and off again rain. I have my son Randy to thank for his suggestions on rain gear, I stayed dry all day. For me this was a very boring day along the city streets and along  a road for mile after mile. When I got to the albergue I realized that this was the first time that I took no photos all day. It was however a good day to listen to music and continue the never ending probing into my inner self and spirit. It came to mind that I have completed one month of my journey. A journey that has been an amazing experience, great joy, great sadness, physical pain, mental cruelty, ego distraction, new friends, some that will last a lifetime, others only enter your life for a day or two, then vanish as rapidly as they appeared. But each leaving a lasting imprint in my mind. Some will leave a lasting positive impression, some the opposite.  The joy the heartache, the success the disappointment, the love the beauty, the frustration the resolve, deep connection , disassociation, helpfulness, selfishness are all experienced along the path. I remind myself that I am blessed, at the end of a long day I have a shower and a bed waiting for me, I only wish the shower had hot water . Tomorrow the water will be hot. I am blessed that I have my wife and family. I am blessed with good health, I am blessed with good friends, that all add to my riches to my life.no photos taken today so here are a few from the last month. Thought for the day; Man’s character is his destiny.

A very short hike today only 18 km about ten miles, rain was in the forecast but never appeared. A nice hike back into nature, to hear the birds sing their morning songs, to listen the leaves rustle in the wind, to look up and see faces and figures in the passing clouds, the sun trying to peek thru the clouds to cast a beam of light on a field of now golden grain. About  half way thru the hike came upon a wayside stand offering fruit, juice , cookies, coffee, herbal tea, toast jams and jellies , local honey, homemade bread, bananas,oranges, and apples. The stand is created by a wonderful woman , everything is at no cost, just donate what you can . She just places her trust that there will always be enough for everyone if we just give to each other and trust. She is living in a blissful spot in the middle of nowhere but somewhere. She keeps a fire going , she tends her gardens and her roses , she gives best wishes to everyone who passes by. She has a litter of cats sitting next to a wood stove, she has created several areas for pilgrims to rest and reflect. An amazing soul.  Later I cam upon a local man sitting on a bench playing his guitar and singing pilgrim songs. I sat and listened and talked story for a period of time. Nice to go at a slow pace and enjoy the journey. I arrived in Astorga dry and pleased with the day, the town sports gothic and Gaudi architecture . Lots of places to eat a very charming village of 12,000 residents . The thought of the day;  a desire is never given to you without the power to realize it. But it could perhaps be that you have to work for it. Here are some photos from the day

The Camino is an endless repetition, a universal calling, a prayer: Walk. Eat. Sleep. Repeat. The Camino is not what you think it is. And not what you think it should be. It is everything and it is nothing. It forces you and moves you, teases you and slams you, questions you and fights you. It blisters you, depletes you, weakens you and at the same time toughens you, builds you, strengthens you. It questions you, talks to you, listens to your silence. It is the outside of the inside of you and everything in between. The Camino is sinner and Saint, history and legends, believers and non-believers. It is scores of nationalities all marching in the same direction, all for different reasons, but each following the same road toward the same destination. The Camino is 500 miles of sorting out, taking in, letting go. It is a physical, mental, and emotional reality check of what you think you are and who you are. The Camino fills you, then empties you. It teases you and calms you. And does it again and again with each coming day. Walk. Eat. Sleep. Repeat. There is comfort in repetition.

Today Renee and I just spent the day chillaxing in Astorga, had a nice breakfast , walked around the city, shared parts of each of our solo walks along the Camino , we each had many deep thoughts as we walked our solo journeys . We each shared the fears we faced, the joys that were revealed, the physical challenges , the mental complexities, the shared experiences with other pilgrims. Renee got to meet the Wolfpack that I had traveled so many miles with and had shared so many parts of our souls. She got to meet Ramona a young German girl and her dog Mia. The two of them have walked over 350 miles together, only camping in a tent every night, as the hostels and albergues don’t allow dogs. They are quite a pair to observe, as the mutual love for each other is very apparent. I was happy to have PJ , Lisa, and Stewart meet Renee, as I had shared so much of our life together, that now they got to meet her in person.  Renee and I had a nice dinner and called it an evening, as we would start our walk together in the morning. We planned on walking just the two of us together, a special time to reconnect.  Here is a photo of PJ, Lisa,Ramona and Her  dog Mia. And another pilgrim named Krista, Stewart from our Wolfpack is missing in this photo.

I can’t get wifi on my iPhone so I can’t post to the blog , I will try to post several days worth when I can reconnect to the wifi. It has been a most profound 4 or 5 days with Renee and I. 

This is the first day that Renee and I shared our walk together . We walked alone but together, sometimes being silent, other times sharing our thoughts, sharing our innermost things that we had discovered during our solo journeys along the Camino . Each of us discovered or uncovered thoughts, feelings or self discoveries, that both filled our souls as well as surprised ourselves. We shared our darkness and our light. We shared our joy and our fear, we held hands as we walked and comforted each other. We dismissed expectations, and differences. We listened and heard each other, without judgement . We set ego aside to just be present for each other. What became evident was, love mattered. The bond of love is all that really matters, to set conditions aside, and just know that love exists between us. A week or two ago I decided , for the first time to listen to my music on my iPhone , I hit shuffle and the first song played 5 times in a row. The song was” Don’t know much” by Aaron Neville and Linda Ronstadt. The song says ” I don’t know much , but I know that I love you” this song would play every time I selected my music to play.  I played the song for Renee as we walked, we both looked at each other and knew that the words were true for each of us. I Don’t Know Much,but I Know That I Love You.  Thank you Camino for getting us down to the basics, this is our sturdy foundation. So this walk was emotional , uplifting, and renewing. Renee and I enjoyed the serene walk to Rabanal and found a nice albergue to stay . We then went to a pilgrims mass at the local church, it was a Gregorian chant type of mass. Renee was carrying a cross for one of our neighbors in Las Vegas, he had asked we get it blessed along the the Camino, so with all the blessings we had today, it was perfect that we could get the cross blessed as well, from the priest in the church.  This was a most special day. A day of reaffirming our love and a day of blessings. The thought for the day;  In the midst of difficulties there is always an island of possibilities. Here are some photos of today’s walk to Rabanal.

Today’s walk was a very special walk to one of the highest points on the Camino. It is also where ” La Cruz de Ferro” is located.this is an important place along the Camino for many pilgrims. Pilgrims carry with them a rock, or a trinket, or a special item that has or has had a special meaning to them, or to someone else.   This is where each pilgrim puts away the past, says a prayer , places their significant item at the base of the Iron cross at the top of the mountain. Each person has their own reason, or burden to let go of . A vision of a new beginning , a prayer for healing, forgiveness for blessings, a myriad of individual reasons. This pile of rocks and momento’s has grown to over 15 feet tall stone by stone over the century’s . After reaching this emotional high point, we then decended steeply down the mountain, this part of the caminon is very tough on the body , as the downhill attacks all of your joints, jolting you with the pounding repetitive steps downward. We decend almost 3,000 feet in just a few miles .  Today I reflected back on the time in Sahagun, and the bull fight weekend, I could not bring myself to attend the bull fight.  I was in Spain, the bull fights are a national event, the whole city comes alive, but I could not attend. I had to ask myself WHY It is to me , a symbol of mans inhumanity to man, one persons dominance over another, one is more important than another. The string or powerful rule over the weak.  Here is a bull eating in his peaceful pasture, enjoying the company of his cows, making calves. Enjoying his life, all of a sudden men come in take the bull away from all that he has known, shackles and chains him , hauls him away to an unknown place, torments and teases him, chases him thru streets, hitting him with sticks, loud noises, all the way to the bull ring . Here he will meet his fate, but is first tortured and incouraged to fight to show his anger, to put up a good fight, to make the Matadore look good and to show how brave and dominate the Matadore is. Only to stand broken in spirit to receive the final thrust of the sword.  Is it human nature to be dominate over others ? I am reminded how the slave traders went to Africa and took the people away to use them for their own gain, he who had the most or best slaves was rewarded.  What is it about our nature that allows us to choose dominance over harmony? why can’t we all just get along? Thought for the day; live as you like to, without ever hurting someone else.  Here are a few photos of the  walk to the cross and then down to Molinaseca.

We had a great time last night in the hostel in Molinaseca , we rejoined PJ, and Lisa, found them sitting in the shade of a tree relaxing along the rivers edge, we enjoyed aBrazilian dinner created by our hostel hosts, a special evening where each of us shared our reasons for our Camino walk and some of what we had learned along the way.  Renee and I have found a deeper connection then we thought possible . Building on the foundation of love.  All along the Camino I have been fascinated by the old foundations the doors the Windows . Many of the structures today are upon the foundations of old roman ruins , some using the the old foundation , or reusing the stones from the ruins of old. The use of some else’s foundation can be risky, as it might not be suitable for the new use. Adopting someone else’s idea may not work . The great Cathedral in Leon was built on top of old ruins to save money and labor. As it turned out the old foundation could not support the cathedral and had to be changed during the construction.  I am reminded that when we build our life on others foundations, that we might be disappointed in the out come, of what we intend to build.  As I look at the doors and windows along the Camino . I wonder what is behind those doors? I can only imagine what is there , so my mind creates an idea or image of what is there, without really knowing what is behind the door. We do this in relationships where we imagine what someone else is thinking or what we think they believe . I try to look in the windows of old buildings but can’t see a thing , because there is no light to illuminate , I am reminded that we can’t always see what is there, so we imagine what might be there. As we pry the door open a little or allow the sun to shine in a window , we can now see some of what is inside, with enough illumination we can see how strong the foundation is on the inside . So in relationships we should not rely on our imagination of what someone else is all about, we need to open the door to their inside, open the window to allow more light to illuminate them to truly see their foundation. This way we can fully support and build a lasting structure that will stand the test of time and weather all the storms.  Today I celebrate opening doors and windows and finding useful foundations. If we look with an open heart and with no expectations , we may find the truth of what is within and the foundation upon which it is built. We have the ability to explore each other, and apreciate the beauty of what we find in each other. Thought for the day;  Reality or illusion, which is which? Some photos.

Today we walked about 18km thru farm land and vineyards, walked thru very small villages.  It was a very peaceful walk, lots of quiet time to each ponder our thoughts, and let the last couple of days settle into our souls. The peace and beauty that we were seeing matched the feelings inside of each of us. We stayed in a small albergue and had a room to ourselves . By the way I am up to 49 different bird calls. Thought for the day; A caged bird sings about freedom. A free bird flies.  Some photos

A short 15km day today. We climbed and climbed and climbed some more. It was a beautiful day, a nice physical challenge on a narrow rocky trail much of the way. We were rewarded with stunning views and very small villages. We stopped for the night in La Faba with a population of 15 people. We stayed in a very clean albergue run by a German confraternity. We ate dinner in a refuge that cooked vegan meals all grown in their garden. After dinner we attended a mass conducted at the local church. They conducted a pilgrims blessing in all different languages . We all shared our pilgrim stories and how the journey has affected us. We then all said peace be with you to each and every person along with a hug. If only the whole world could act with this love and compassion . We were people from all over the world enjoying each other’s journey. We can not give peace unless we first create peace in our own hearts and minds. Thought for the day;  Face your path with courage, don’t be scared of people’s criticism. And above all, don’t let yourself get paralyzed by your own criticism. Some photos from the day.

Today we continued our steep climb to the village of  O’Cebreiro, a mountaintop top old village hosting one of the oldest churches on the Camino dating back to the 9th century, we walked the steep path in a cool morning mist, walking in the clouds that capped the tops of the mountain. We are now in the district of Galicia, with the Celtic influence, the food and the language here is different than other parts of Spain. The wine is richer and more bold, the cattle , sheep and pigs are the mainstay here, but later as we near Santiago in Galicia we will see more and more sea food offered.  We continued our journey down off the mountain to the small city of Triecastela. At one time there were three castles in the city, nine of who’ve survive today. They were destroyed almost as fast as they were built. We stayed in a wonderful albergue, one of the best that we have seen. The hosts kind of adopted us, and shared part of their life with us and made us feel special , it was a real connection with them. We continue to be blessed with rich experiences.  Thought for the day ; We might be disappointed when we fail , but we are lost when we don’t even try. Some photos from the day

We decided to spend another day in this village and the fine albergue, we got to see part of my Wolfpack as they passed thru. Nice to see and spend time with PJ and Lisa, we miss Stewart as he has gone north to walk the less traveled English Camino, perhaps we will see him in Santiago. Tomorrow we will head out towards Sarria, Sarria marks the last 100 km to Santiago . For a pilgrim to receive a compestella they must complete the last 100 km into Santiago, so pilgrims that wish a compestella flood into Sarria to start their pilgrim walk. We know the energy of the new additions to the Camino will be different from those of us that have walked the entire Camino . No judgement here,  just a new experience, that the Camino has to offer. I am already feeling the sadness of the Camino physical journey coming to an end, but the Camino will dwell within me forever. the thought for the day; The Way is your destination. Random photos of People and things along the way 

A very magical and mystical walk today. We had a fairly steep climb up and out of Triacastela, into chestnut and oak forested pathways, crossing small brooks and streams. Winding along small farm paths. We came upon the first albergue , it was an ecological themed refuge, offering hot tea , fresh orange juice. The albergue also was a yoga retreat, nestled among 800 year old chestnut trees, a very magical area. Jeff was the host of the albergue , he was from Australia, and been hosting for a year or so, his vision was to reside aiding pilgrims for the rest of his life, he had been captured by the Camino, and was now experiencing full sustainability via the Camino. He told us of two other places to visit along the path, one a wayside fruit and food area hosted by a man named Simon , the food and fruit was offered via donation only, so Simon was also trusting the Camino for his sustainability vision, thus far he had been offering free food and drink for over two years. We engaged in heart felt conversation for quite a time, it was a very special connection, to hear his take on life and the Camino. He told us that we should divert off the normal path and visit an alchemist artist that had a Refugio and meditation center, and art studio. A very interesting visit , the artwork was all fashioned out of ground up Crystals , gem stones and minerals. All of the colors were natural, the designs were full of the energy and vision of the artist and the energy of the media. A most profound visit.  It was a great day of walking and much inspiration. We stayed at a nice albergue offering vegan meals, a fitting end to a mystical, spiritual day Here are some photos of the day.

Today the Camino was a new experience, we walked early in the morning into the  town of Sarria. When a person want to get a certificate of compestela in Santiago, one must complete the last 100 km by foot or 200 Km by bike , in order to receive ones compestela. Sarria is the town that meets the 100 km requirement . So, many people only do the last 100km. The tranquility of the last 700km has turned into a freeway of humanity, rather than being surrounded by seasoned pilgrims , we are now amongst first day travelers and new pilgrims all experiencing their first day on the Camino. So, the camino is providing me with new oppertunities for me to experience my own judgements and thoughts about this part of the Camino. I get to experience deeper compassion, tolerance, patience, understanding , and love for everyone that chooses to walk their Camino for whatever their reason or intention. Bless all those who walk the path. Some of today’s photos.

Our walk together has been wonderful, healing , accepting, compassionate, heartfelt, bonding and transforming. The Camino has. Much to offer if one is open to seeing, feeling, and accepting all the gifts offered. The Camino is a gift. I am going to try something new in the blog, and only post photos of our walk, with no words. As we near the end of our walk, the journey becomes more and more personal and like a giant drill bit, the Camino bores deeply into our soul, to bring light to the core of our being. Here are photos of our walk today. The man with the stick is pointing out all the places he has visited on his Camino, he started  in Paris 2500 km ago Thought for the day; Your life is what your thoughts make of it.  

I will post when I get back and get my phone fixed. We have completed the Camino in Santiago, and we took a train to Madrid , we will fly back to the USA tomorrow. 

Life starts fresh in the present moment. The past is only the path that we have walked. The pebbles along the path that we have encountered may allow us to climb the boulders we may encounter ahead. From the top of a boulder we have different view to behold.

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In all that is, there is a place of connection, and balance becomes present.